Crete had been on my travel list for a long time, but I hadn’t found the right time or a cheap flight ticket until now. 🙂 But this time, both worked out, so I got to see two of the world’s most beautiful beaches in person.
When Greece announced the removal of travel restrictions in early May 2022, I immediately checked for flights. I found a return ticket for June 4-7 for 48 €, which I booked right away. I know it’s very little time for Crete, but I thought Heraklion and Chania, as well as the beaches of Balos and Elafonisi, could just fit in.
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Chania
My Wizz Air flight departed from Budapest on June 4th, Saturday noon, and landed in Heraklion at around half past three local time.
From the airport, I took a bus to the center, the ticket cost 1.10 euros (opposite the departure side of the airport, there’s a sign saying Heraklion Bus Centre). The bus stops at the central bus station, where I bought a ticket to Chania. You can buy it from a machine too, for 13.80 euros.
The journey to Chania takes more than 2.5 hours, passing through several small towns. I arrived around 7 pm, found my accommodation which I had booked on Airbnb in the old town. It was very simple, but clean, in a great location, and importantly, very quiet. I was maybe 150 meters away from one of the pedestrian streets with several bars.
Chania’s downtown is very beautiful. Along a bay, there’s a walking area with lots of restaurants. It’s worth walking to the lighthouse, from where there’s a wonderful view of this bay. Especially at night, it shows its prettier side.
Balos
On Sunday, I enjoyed Balos, one of the two famous beaches on the western side.
From Chania, I took a bus to the port of Kissamos, from where the boat named Gramvousa departed. I bought a ticket online for 27 euros, and they scan the QR code from the email at boarding. You have to pay an extra 1 euro in cash. (You can book here.)
There’s a buffet on the boat offering cold water, beer, snacks, and some basic food at reasonable prices (0.75 liter water for 0.90 euros, a long coffee for 2 euros).
The journey itself is beautiful, but when the boat turns into Balos, oh, it’s something else! I’ve been to several beaches, but such colors are rare. And the mountainside behind the beach makes it all even more beautiful.
You can walk to the shore in ankle-deep water. I immediately started up the mountain path. This is where those arriving by car come down, the parking lot is at the top of the mountain. As you go up, the view gets more and more beautiful. You can see white, blue, turquoise colors, the whole thing is amazing.
We had 2 hours 45 minutes on the beach, and then the boat left for the nearby island of Gramvousa. There’s a fortress ruin at the top of the mountain, reachable by a zigzagging and not so short staircase. The view is great, but coming here after Balos is not as exciting. The other way around would be best.
I returned to Chania by bus. Importantly, the scheduled bus service waits for the boat’s arrival, so you don’t have to worry about missing the bus.
In the evening, I had dinner at a restaurant, where at the end the owner brought me a dessert and a small bottle of about one and a half deciliters of liquor (similar to brandy). I later saw this hospitality at several places. So expect some delicacy at the end. 😊
Elafonisi
On Monday, the bus to Elafonisi, considered one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches, left at 9 am.
The bus journey takes about 2 hours and is quite an experience (bus ticket 10 euros/way). The road goes through a gorge in the rock walls, often barely fitting the bus. If you like serpentine roads, you’ll enjoy it.
The bus reached the beach around 11 am, which was wonderful from afar. Along a lagoon, there are sunbeds and umbrellas. Two beds and an umbrella cost 15 euros. There are no trees or bushes providing shade in this area, so if you don’t want to be in the sun for hours, you’ll have to pay. There’s a restroom and a snack bar on the beach.
However, on the other side of the lagoon, there’s an island with white sand like in the tropics. It’s an experience to walk barefoot in the warm sand and enjoy the beautiful beach.
At the end of this island, there are a few trees providing shade, where I set up camp. The view from here is especially beautiful.
The bus leaves back at 4 pm on the same route. It’s a good idea to use the restroom beforehand (0.50 euros), as the bus doesn’t stop anywhere.
In the evening, I ate gyros at one of the restaurants along the bay in Chania, almost similar in taste to what we’re accustomed to at home.
Heraklion
On Tuesday, my flight back was at 16:05, leaving the capital for this day. I took the bus at 7:30 am, arriving in Heraklion at 10 am.
From there, I explored the old town and the port area, visiting the sights. It can be walked through in a few hours.
On the western side of the old town, you can walk on the wall of the former fortress, offering a great view of the city and the sea. Definitely walk along it!
I took a bus to the airport and returned home safely with the Wizz Air flight.